Gina Johnson
Moonlight Buttress is a classic climb in Zion National Park, Utah, USA. The route is considered one of the world's great 5.12 free climbs and big walls, with continuous sandstone splitter cracks and exposure. Most climbers either climb it in a day or fix the first four pitches and then continue to the top. The entire route can be rappelled from fixed anchors. The climb is usually done in 7 to 9 pitches, with the descent being a walk-off. While it is possible to climb Moonlight Buttress in a day, some climbers choose to bivy (sleep) on the route, typically at the top of pitch 5, which offers a comfortable natural ledge for sleeping.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Height | 1200 feet |
| Pitches | 7 to 9 |
| First Ascent | Jeff Lowe and Mike Weiss, 1971 |
| First Free Ascent | Jonny Woodward and Peter Croft, 1992 |
| Rating | 5.9 C2, 5.8 C1+, or 5.12d-5.13a |
| Best Time to Climb | October through April |
| Descent | Walk-off |
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What You'll Learn
The best time to climb Moonlight Buttress is between October and April
Moonlight Buttress is located in Zion National Park, Utah, and the climb is rated between 5.8 C2 and 5.13a in difficulty. The route is approximately 1200 feet tall and is usually climbed in 7 to 9 pitches. The first four pitches are known as the "approach pitches", and the route then follows steep and stunning cracks. The upper buttress goes into the shade in the early afternoon, so climbers should plan their ascent with this in mind.
Climbing Moonlight Buttress typically takes one to two days. Some climbers choose to climb it in a single day, while others opt to fix the first four pitches and then continue to the top on the second day. The route can be rappelled from fixed anchors, and the descent is a walk-off.
When planning a climb of Moonlight Buttress, it is important to consider the approach. The climb is accessed by crossing the Virgin River near Angel's Landing, which is not recommended during periods of high water. An alternate approach involves crossing the Grotto Bridge and following the hiker's trail for Angel's Landing. The shuttle bus, which runs from April 1st to October 30th, is required to reach the approach destination.
Climbing Moonlight Buttress requires a variety of gear, including a big wall harness, cams, carabiners, and sleeping gear if planning to bivy on the route. The route features hanging belays, so a belay seat may be desired. Additionally, climbers should be aware of the potential impact of their gear placements on the fragile sandstone of Zion.
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The climb is usually done in 7 to 9 pitches
The Moonlight Buttress climb is a classic 1,200-1,300-foot route in Zion National Park, Utah, United States. It is a challenging climb, rated 5.12d-5.13a, and is considered one of the world's great 5.12 free climbs and big walls. The climb usually involves 7 to 9 pitches, with the first three being "approach pitches". These initial pitches are followed by steep and stunning sandstone splitter cracks that offer continuous climbing.
The climb typically begins with a long, sandy left-facing, right-leaning corner. The first pitch involves climbing up to a height of 130 feet, using gear such as a mostly full rack, slings, and draws. The second pitch involves runout, easy climbing up to ledgy terrain on the right, with a 10+ roof pull and an awkward lieback crack. The third pitch, at 50 feet, includes a traverse to the right and a step-down/stand-up sequence, with a bolted belay on a ledge.
The fourth pitch, considered a crux of the climb, involves a thin flake and a traverse back left below a roof to a corner. This pitch includes a difficult move to a stance below a bolt, with the option to step left to easier terrain. A bolted belay is available above on terraced ledges.
The fifth pitch features a challenging 12b boulder problem off the Rocker Block, requiring climbers to lean or leap sideways. Several hard moves lead to a rest at the base of a left-facing corner. The sixth pitch, considered the enduro pitch, involves liebacking and jamming techniques to navigate through thin sections and flares.
The seventh pitch, at 100 feet, is described as a great, wild pitch, including a chimney and a right-angle corner. It includes a strenuous move from knee bar mode to jam/lieback mode, leading to a long, gradually thinning finger crack. The eighth pitch, at 80 feet, features splitter rattley fingers, with a bolted belay on a ledge.
The ninth pitch, at 110 feet, continues with splitter rattley fingers and includes a sit-down rest. After the rest, climbers navigate a thin crack, pin scars, and a crack switch to a bolted belay on a narrow ledge. The tenth pitch, at 190 feet, involves tricky face climbing and sandy locks, leading to a no-hands knee bar rest. Climbers can skip the anchor and continue through a sandy roof to the top-out.
Overall, the Moonlight Buttress climb is a demanding and challenging adventure, requiring proper gear, physical endurance, and technical skills.
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The first four pitches are considered approach pitches
The first four pitches of Moonlight Buttress are considered the "approach pitches". These initial pitches are a friendly warm-up, with moderate difficulty and one slightly more challenging 5.11 traverse. The first four pitches are also referred to as the "approach pitches" because they lead up to the main event: 700 feet of continuous splitter finger crack climbing.
The approach pitches are crucial for climbers to get accustomed to the route and the rock. They offer an opportunity to warm up the fingers, arms, and legs, as well as to establish a rhythm and strategy for the climb ahead. It is also a chance to take in the breathtaking views of Zion's valley, with Angels Landing and the Great White Throne in sight.
Most climbers choose to fix these first four pitches and then push on to the summit. The approach pitches are also where many climbers choose to bivy (spend the night) for their first big wall bivy experience. This is a strategic choice, as it allows climbers to rest and prepare for the more challenging pitches ahead, ensuring they are well-rested and ready to tackle the splitter finger cracks and exposed climbing that Moonlight Buttress is famous for.
The approach pitches should not be underestimated, however. Even though they are considered easier than the following pitches, they still require technical skill and careful climbing. The 5.11 traverse, for example, can be "spicy" and get the adrenaline pumping. Additionally, the approach pitches can be physically demanding and tiring, especially for those who are not accustomed to this type of climbing.
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The route can be rappelled from fixed anchors
Rappelling is a technique used in climbing to descend a route. It involves using a rope to control your descent. Moonlight Buttress is a 1200-foot-tall climbing route in Zion National Park, Utah, USA. The entire route can be rappelled from fixed anchors.
The route is usually climbed in 7 to 9 pitches, with the first three pitches considered "approach pitches". The upper buttress of the route goes into the shade in the early afternoon, so it is best to climb this route in the morning. The best time of year to climb is from October through April.
The descent from the climb is a walk-off, and it takes about 3/4 to 1.5 hours to hike back to the Grotto Bridge Tram stop. However, it is important to note that the Virgin River Approach to the climb is not recommended during periods of high water.
Rappelling with haul bags can be one of the most destructive things you can do on this route, as the sandstone in Zion is very soft and fragile. There is a paved walk-off trail less than 100 feet from the topout, so there is no excuse for rappelling the route.
It is common practice to fix the upper pitches of Moonlight Buttress in order to practice free climbing the upper pitches. However, it is important to use proper safety techniques when rappelling, such as tying a knot at the end of the rope and using a backup such as a prussic or short tie-in.
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The descent is a walk-off
The descent from Moonlight Buttress is a walk-off. The walk-off descent is faster than rappelling. From the top of Moonlight Buttress, walk off via the Angel’s Landing trail. This is 2 miles of paved trail to the Grotto Picnic Area, which is 1.5 miles down the road from Angel’s Landing. Alternatively, you can rappel down.
The climb is usually done in 7 to 9 pitches. The first four pitches are referred to as the "approach pitches". Once atop the fourth pitch, you look up at the beginning of 700 feet of continuous splitter finger crack. From this stance, you have an amazing view of Zion’s valley.
Moonlight Buttress is a classic climb and many people experience their first aid climb and their first big wall bivy on this route. The route is demanding and usually takes a full day. The best time to climb is in October through April. The route can be rappelled from fixed anchors.
The approach to Moonlight Buttress takes about 30 minutes. From the Big Bend parking lot, continue on foot up the road, drop down to the Virgin River, and cross near a huge boulder on the far side. Pick up a great climber’s trail to the base of the route. Begin the route well to the left by scrambling up a 4th-class passage to the first belay.
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Frequently asked questions
No, you do not need to sleep on Moonlight Buttress. The route can be climbed in a day. However, there are some good bivouac spots if you do wish to sleep on the route.
The best time to climb is between October and April.
The climb usually takes 7 to 9 pitches.
The descent is a walk-off. It takes between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours to hike back to the Grotto Bridge Tram stop.
You will need a big wall harness, a belay seat, cams, carabiners, aiders, jumars, a traction pulley, a hook, daisy chains, slings, a sleeping bag, a portable toilet, a portable ledge, a haul bag, a static line, a dynamic rope, and water.
