Gina Johnson
Men and women both wore stockings, or hose, as early as the 16th century. In the early medieval period, socks were considered an essential item of underwear and were worn by men and women alike. By the 16th century, hose became one garment extending to the crotch as men's tunics and breeches shortened, exposing more of the leg. Stockings were typically knee-length, tied at the top, and embroidered. While stockings were worn by both sexes, they were more common among the upper classes and nobility, and were usually made of silk or cotton.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Time Period | 16th-19th centuries |
| Clothing Type | Stockings and hose |
| Adornments | Clocks (lavish embroidery), stripes, and other decorations |
| Fabric | Wool, silk, or cotton |
| Class | Upper class/nobility |
| Occasions | Special occasions and formal events |
| Function | Warmth and fashion |
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What You'll Learn
Stockings were an essential item of underwear for men and women
Stockings have been worn by both men and women throughout history, though they were not always worn to sleep in. In the pre-industrial era, most people were farmers, herders, or in skilled trades, so "stockings, high heels, and ruffles" were not standard attire. Instead, this type of clothing was typically worn by the upper classes or nobility, either on special occasions or in their daily lives.
In the early medieval period, socks (or hose) were considered an indicator of nobility. They were woven or sewn by hand and often made of wool, silk, or cotton. In the 16th century, with the invention of the knitting machine, tighter woven socks made of silk or cotton became accessible to the upper classes, while the general population continued to wear woollen hose.
By the 12th century, men's hose had become a staple in many parts of the world. These hose were knee-length and usually featured some form of embroidery. Over time, the length of socks varied from mid-calf to knee to mid-thigh, and they featured decorations or stripes rather than just embroidery at the top. In the 16th century, these two-legged hose evolved into a single garment that extended to the crotch, as men's tunics and breeches shortened, exposing more of the leg.
During the 16th to 19th centuries, stockings in Europe and America were often decorated with strengthening embroidery known as "clocking." This embroidery was a unisex feature, with men and women wearing clocked hose and stockings until the early 19th century. After the introduction of trousers in menswear, clocks became primarily a woman's decorative element. By the 1840s, stockings were held up above the knee with elastic cords, and the term "clocking" fell out of use by the late 19th century.
In the 20th century, the introduction of nylon socks and the rise of central heating led to new trends in stocking usage. Women began to wear flesh-coloured, sheer nylon stockings to cover their legs as hemlines rose. During World War II, nylon stocking production ceased, leading to a black market. After the war, nylon stockings remained in high demand, but other alternatives like pantyhose emerged in the 1950s, causing a decline in the popularity of stockings.
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Men wore stockings before women
While it is unclear whether men wore stockings and gowns to sleep, it is known that men wore stockings before women did. In the medieval period, men wore "hose", which covered the legs, similar to modern-day tights. The word "stock" referred to the lower trunk and limbs of the 15th century, which later became the upper and nether stocks, or what we now know as knee breeches and stockings.
During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, hose was an important fashion item for men of the gentry and nobility. Lower-status men also wore hose, which were coarser and knitted by hand from wool or linen fibres, or made from bias-cut woven fabrics. The production of hose sparked innovations in knitting, leading to the invention of the first knitting machine in late-sixteenth-century England. This machine could knit cloth ten times faster than by hand, but the resulting cloth was only considered suitable for peasant hose.
By the end of the century, the technology had been refined to create silk stockings, leading to a thriving industry for high-quality, high-priced hose that lasted until the end of the eighteenth century. During this time, men's hose were often padded with "artificial calves" to create the shapely leg demanded by fashion ideals. It wasn't until the 1920s that women began to wear stockings regularly, as hemlines of dresses rose and central heating was not yet widespread. These stockings were made of silk or rayon and, after 1940, nylon.
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Men's stockings were knee-length and tied at the top
Men's stockings, historically known as "hose", first appeared in the 12th century and were initially worn for warmth. Over time, they became a symbol of nobility and social status, with decorative features such as embroidery and clocks (lavishly embroidered sections). While stockings were worn by both genders, men's hose were typically knee-length and tied at the top.
The length of men's hose varied throughout the centuries, ranging from mid-calf to knee-length to mid-thigh. The exposure of the leg increased as men's tunics and breeches shortened over time, leading to a desire for well-shaped legs. By the 16th century, the two-legged hose evolved into a single garment that extended to the crotch, similar to the pantyhose of today.
During the Renaissance and the early stages of the First Industrial Revolution, the attire of stockings, high heels, and ruffles was typical of the upper classes and special occasions. This fashion extended into the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries, as evidenced by the decorative clocked woolen boot-hose worn by men in a 17th-century illustration.
In the 18th century, a distinction emerged between full dress for formal occasions and undress for everyday wear. While the term "clocking" for decorative embroidery fell out of use in the late 19th century, it experienced a resurgence in the 2010s with unique, asymmetrical designs.
Today, men's knee-length socks, or "knee socks," are reminiscent of the hose worn by men in the past, minus the embroidery and ties. While the specific practice of wearing stockings and gowns to sleep was not found, the historical context provides insight into the evolution of men's legwear, including the knee-length hose tied at the top.
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Stockings were decorated with embroidery known as clocking
While there is limited information on whether men used to wear stockings and gowns to sleep, it is known that stockings were a common piece of clothing for both men and women before the 19th century. In fact, stockings were an essential item of underwear during this period. They were typically knitted and made of silk, cotton, or wool.
Stockings were often decorated with embroidery known as "clocking" or "clocks". This embroidery was usually positioned at the ankle or the back of the heel, and it could be knitted, woven, or embroidered into the fabric. The term "clocks" comes from the Dutch word meaning "bell-shaped", as the embroidery was often placed in a bell-shaped design at the ankle. Clocking was used to strengthen the stocking, but also to add a decorative element to an outfit. The embroidery was typically done in metallic thread, and it could be used to contrast with the colour of the rest of the stocking. For example, in the 1870s, it was fashionable to wear white silk stockings with coloured clocks, while in the 1880s, black stockings with clocking became popular.
The practice of clocking stockings dates back to the 16th century, and it continued through to the 19th century. While it was initially a unisex feature, clocks eventually became associated with women's fashion after the introduction of trousers in menswear. However, the term "clocking" fell out of fashion after the late 19th century, although some hosiery designers continued to use it in their products. For example, Mary Grey advertised "clocked stockings" in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Women's Wear Daily throughout the 1950s.
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Stockings were typically made of silk, cotton or wool
Men's stockings and gowns were once a common sleepwear choice. This practice was prevalent during the Renaissance and the early stages of the First Industrial Revolution. While the common man's clothing was typically made of durable cotton, the upper classes and nobility often wore silk or wool stockings, with gowns made of finer materials.
Stockings, historically known as "hose", were worn by men in the medieval period. The word "stock" referred to the bottom "stump" part of the body, and this term was used to describe the one-piece garment covering the lower trunk and limbs in the 15th century, which later separated into knee breeches and stockings. During the 18th century, aristocratic men often wore silk stockings, which were considered fashionable.
The type of stocking depended on the occasion. For formal events and court appearances, men wore full dresses, while their everyday attire was more relaxed. Men's stockings were made of silk, cotton, or wool, with polished cotton called lisle being a popular choice. The town of Balbriggan was also known for producing stockings.
The practice of wearing stockings and gowns to sleep may have been influenced by the clothing of the upper classes, which trickled down to influence the sleepwear of the time. As central heating was not widely available, stockings also provided warmth during sleep.
Today, stockings are primarily worn for fashion and aesthetics, often with mid-length or short skirts. They are commonly made using knitted wool, silk, cotton, or nylon. The introduction of pantyhose in the late 1950s offered an alternative to stockings, leading to a decline in their sales.
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Frequently asked questions
There is no evidence that men used to wear stockings and gowns to sleep. However, stockings were an essential item of underwear for men and women before the 19th century.
Men's stockings were typically made of silk, cotton, or wool.
No, the common man's clothing was simple and durable. Stockings, high heels, and ruffles were worn by the upper classes and nobility, often on special occasions.
Men's stockings often featured decorative embroidery known as clocking on the front. Clocks were a unisex feature, with men's hose decorated with lavish embroidery, particularly around the ankles.
